Have you tried resetting your bios yet? Your motherboard manual would detail how to do it, but it usually involves moving a jumper on the motherboard and then returning it to the original position. You could also remove the battery from your motherboard for a few minutes. Oddly enough, my motherboard manual actually has me do both, move the jumper and remove the battery for 5 to 10 seconds.
ok, to kozmo: yes, i am using NTFS, but i have been for at least a year now, and have had no problem. i am able to boot to the cd, but it freezes before it starts the setup of a new (or repairing) windows OS.
to Pyroshane: yes i have, i have done both (moving the CMOS jumper to reset, then back, and removing the battery.
i decided to read the manual more in depth and have discovered that using a 20-pin main connector from the PSU could cause it to boot incorrectly, if at all. they suggest using a 24-pin. so.... i'm sorry for all this trouble i have caused :( i will buy a new psu, because that would seem to be the problem, and i will tell you what happens. thank you everyone for your help
hmmmm, i use a 20 pin connector for my 24 pin motherboard.
I'll quote what it says. Hmmm....... It seems I can't do brackets on my sidekick, or click the link so here:
"Users please note that the 20-pin and the 24-pin power cables can both be connected to the ATX1 connector. With the 20-pin power cable, just align the 20-pin power cable with the pin 1 of the ATX1 connector. However, using 20-pin power cabke may cause the system to become unbootable or unstable because of insufficient electricity."
Then it goes on with pictures of the 20-pin and 24-pin alignment with the clip, then a table with what each pin is used for. But anywho, would the PSU be doing this? Because really, I've tried everything that has been suggested, from everyone here and from ECS tech support. I might want to borrow a frends 24-pin power supply first, before I go out and buy one though, huh?
I would definately recommend borrowing before dropping the money on a new PSU. If the problem is not the PSU then you just wasted your money for nothing.
It could very well be a PSU issue though. I had problems where my computer would randomly reboot during gaming for a while. My computer would go anywhere from 5 minutes to 5 hours before rebooting. Tried reformatting, tried swapping out different pieces of hardware, checked for overheating, and nothing worked. Swapped out the PSU with one borrowed from a friend and it hasn't rebooted since.
i had to upgrade around 30 computers a couple years ago to windows xp. some of them gave me fits trying to get windows to install. i would start out then by setting bios to 'fail-safe', remove all but one stick of memory, disconnect the power to any other cd drives or dvd drives except the one you will boot with, remove any non-essential cards (such as nic, sound, usb) and see if it will continue through the install.
Alright, tried it with just one stick of ram (512 mb), my hdd, one cd drive, and my video card. No sound card, no extra cd drive, no floppy drive. There's no "fail safe" CMOS setting, rather there's optomal and best preformance settings. It freezes before it gets through the setup files when booting from cd with optimal. And with best preformance it actually booted from the hard drive! Then as it was going through the loading winxp screen, it rebooted the comp. Now when I try it again, it goes back to the thing it used to do, for booting to hdd or cd drive :( /me is confused.
Have you checked your hardware?
Download some bootable diagnostic tools to verify functional hardware. Almost all manufactorers produce these on some level but not all are avaliable to the public. Some collection like "The Ultimate Boot CD" contains a handfull of tools from known manufactorers and is free to download and burn.
You need to put in your XP CD, and boot from it (change boot sequence in BIOS, restart). Then tell it to do a fresh install, NOT repair it. When you tell it to do this, it will search for existing partitions on the current Hard Disk Drive. When it finds them, delete them, and create a new partition with with the maxiumum space possible. Then tell Windows to install. It'll take a long time (hour or two) and then start to install.
I had the same problem you had when I upgraded...
Oh, and, yes; choose the NTFS file system.
can you try with your old processor in?