I am looking to get an all new PSU/motherboard/processor/ram/extra HD for chirstmas, saving up now. Certain's: AMD64 +3700 socket 939 Thermalright XP-90 heatsink Need help decieding: Powersuppy Either this, this or something undfer $100 Ram: Either this, this, this, this, or somethng under $140 Unsure: Hard drive with 8mb cashe, under $70 Motherboard with 8x AGP under $110
21st February 2005
Why not get a PCI Express motherbored?
30th January 2004
Well, I personally like this motherboard, which seems to be the best I could find with you're description: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813180064 Hard drive: Lowest seek times out of all hdds compared at you're price limitation: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16822148040 Personally, I would go with the corsair ram. As for the psu, I couldnt help you there as I just use the psu that comes with the case ;)
AgenlaidlawWhy not get a PCI Express motherbored?
Maybe he has an AGP video card?
Trust me, I'm a Doctor
25th November 2003
He probably wants to use the video card he has now, 6800GT is it?
Revenge was here.
14th December 2004
For the RAM, get the OCZ... the second one you linked to. It has the lowest timings at only 2-2-2-5 (that's really good...). For a PSU, I personally like the OCZ ModStream power supplys. There is also a 520W version if you're willing to stretch your budget to $105.
AgentlaidlawWhy not get a PCI Express motherbored?
I alredy have 6800gt, I don't want to sell this then buy another 6800gt in PCI-e.
There is also a 520W version if you're willing to stretch your budget to $105.
I am not sure if its a misprint, but the 450watt and the 520 have the same amp output:uhm:. That HD is good, but I am not sure how good via chipsets are...
Shizzle my nizzle
28th July 2004
Pethegreat™I am not sure if its a misprint, but the 450watt and the 520 have the same amp output:uhm:.
Watts are different from Amps. Watts measure power in joules-per-second, and Amps measure current (intensity). Watts is the product of the current and the voltage (driving force), so the current can be the same as long as the voltages are different if the power output is different. However, if they are the same current, it's probably better to get the lower powered one as it will be splitting the power into less 'pieces', resulting in more stable rails.
RevenWatts are different from Amps. Watts measure power in joules-per-second, and Amps measure current (intensity). Watts is the product of the current and the voltage (driving force), so the current can be the same as long as the voltages are different if the power output is different. However, if they are the same current, it's probably better to get the lower powered one as it will be splitting the power into less 'pieces', resulting in more stable rails.
Actually I looked it up somewhere else and it does have more amperage, and it looks relly good. Here it is: +3.3V@28A, +5V@40A, +12V@33A, -5V@0.5A, -12V@0.5A, +5VSB@2.0A Now this ram looks relly good, PC 3500 from OCZ for $132, is it a good deal since I want to overclock. http://cgi.ebay.com/OCZ-Peroformance-1GB-2-x-512MB-184-Pin-DDR-SDRAM_W0QQitemZ6788939611QQcategoryZ74942QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
...burning angel wings to dust
14th February 2004
A quick primer on power: As Reven already covered, a watt is a measure of power (energy/unit of time). A volt is the basic unit of energy, and an ampere is a measure of current (or intensity). Using the old standby pipe analogy, volts represent the amount of water in the pipe, amps represent the pressure of the water in the pipe, and watts represent the amount of water coming out of the pipe. If you want to factor in ohms (resistance), then the size of the pipe is inverse to resistance (more ohms are represented in the analogy as a smaller pipe). At any rate, with computers we usually discount resistance, though it is the primary cause of voltage droop. But because of that, we can use the simple formula of W = (V * A) to figure out how much usable power a PSU will give. Going a step beyond that, the +12V is now the most important one. If you look at PIII- and K6-era power supplies, you'll notice that +12V is typically weak, and that +5V is quite beefy. Back then, +5V was the primary power rail for the CPU's voltage regulators. That's now shifted to +12V, and is why so many of us hammer on having a PSU with stong +12V lines. Onto the original post: I don't much care for either PSU myself, but my two pics are outside of your price range. I think the Enermax is the slightly safer bet, since you get an extra 12W on +12V1 (which I believe is the rail that supplies the CPU). Go with the OCZ RAM: it's probably Samsung TCCD or TCC5 chips on it, which is a good thing. Might be Winbond UTT (which is a bad thing, unless you'd like to hack and run a DDR Booster), or the Micron ICs that I can't recall the name of (same ones Crucial uses on the Ballistix). Don't cheap out on the hard drive. $70 barely buys you an 80GB. Tack on $30 or $40 and you can find a much better value. For a mobo, I'm tempted to recommend an ASUS A8V Deluxe (there's a cheaper version, too) or MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum (again, there is probably a cheaper version of this, too). Both boards are over $110, but motherboards aren't an area you should skimp on.
3rd May 2005
Well, it depends what other components you plan on introducing. If you are planning on a hefty hard drive (say, >100gig, 10,000revs) or some sort of uber-insane graphics card (HiS Radeon X800XT IceQ, or an nVidia *spit* of equal proportions) then you are best to go with the 530W PSU. As for the RAM, I'd say it was between OCZ and Corsair. Now, I believe OCZ RAM runs at a low latency, meaning it develops very good performance with a low frequency. Corsair on the other hand uses more relaxed timings, although they do make very good sticks. It's up to you.